Fabric Resist - Tie and Dye
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Article: Odhani
4) Samunder Laher
The Samunder Laher saree is one type of laheriya only. The Samunder Laher word literally means 'Ocean Waves'. The characteristic feature of this saree is that it is always dyed in pastel shades of colour of Ocean water such as Sky blue, Blue, Sea green, Light green, Light Yellow, Pink, Magenta etc.
‘Tie and dye’ is the process of creating patterns on clothes or
fabrics. It is dyeing natural fabrics that results in interesting and colorful
patterns. The technique of tying of cloth with thread and then dyeing it is the
simplest and perhaps the oldest form of creating patterns on a plain piece of
cloth is known as tie and dye.
However, the art of dying fabrics and
specifically tie-dyeing goes far back in time. The earliest surviving examples
of pre-Colombian tie-dye in Peru date from 500 to 800 A.D. Their designs include
small circles and lines, with bright colors including red, yellow, blue, and
green.
China and Japan had fully developed the
art of tie-dye as early as the sixth century AD, about one and a half millennia
ago. It has been practiced there since at least the eighth century. The
availability of silk and hemp, which are very receptive to the resist
technique, made these countries' art outstanding. Some early tribes in Western
China, South East Asia, and Central America tied and dyed the threads before
weaving their cloth. Technically this was not tie and dye but the beauty of the
designs that appeared was striking as were the patterns done with tie-dyeing.
Other forms of tie and dye can be found in other countries around
the world. Varied styles of tie-dye have emerged to distinguish the different
nations of Africa, the Indian tie & dye technique called Bandhani, also known as Bandhni and Bandhej is the oldest tie and dye tradition we know that is still
practiced. The Malay-Indonesian name for this technique is Plangi. The technique involves a design made of dots, in which many
small points are tied with thread before immersion dyeing.
The centres of tie and dye fabric, especially in Gujarat are
Jamnagar in Saurashtra and Ahmadabad. The finest bandhani work of Rajasthan comes from Bikaner, Jaipur, Jodhpur,
Barmer, Pali, Udaipur, and Nathdwara. Tritik
and plangi are derived from
Indonesia. Additional varieties include mudmee
which originated in Thailand but is also used in Laos. Shibori, which started in Japan somewhere around the eight century.
Bandhej
of Rajasthan
Tie
and dye is known as Bandhej in
Rajasthan. Multi coloured chunries,
sarees, safa were very popular in
Rajasthan. The characteristic feature of these kinds of chunaries was that, after the material was folded in several
layers, the entire area was equally divided by a diagonal line, according to
the number of colours to be used. The various coloured backgrounds were took up
in the form of alphabet V on untying the chunri.
Laheriya
of Rajasthan
Laheriya was
another style of tie and dye of Rajasthan. The term laheriya originated Hindi word ‘Laher’,
meaning water waves. The laheriya had
diagonal stripes and available from two to nine colours. Laheriya striped designs were created through damp material rolled
diagonally from one end to another end till it looked alike a rope. Then tying
and dyeing of the cloth was done proceeded with lighter shade followed by
darker ones. According to the number of colours used in laheriya, it was named as do
ranga laheriya (Two coloured Laheriya), teen ranga laheriya (Laheriya in three colours) or panch
ranga laheriya (Laheriya in five colours).
Article: Odhani
Origin: Rajasthan
Fabric: Georgette
Fabric Colour: White and Dark Pink
Style of Resist:
Fabric Resist
Description: This laheriya had
diagonal stripes in two colours. To manufacture this laheriya,
fabric was rolled diagonally, tied at regular intervals with untwisted cotton
threads and then dyed in dark pink colour to create laheriya on it. The laheriya
saree had thin and narrow bands i.e. shike in white and pink. The saree was
further embellished with tikki (sequin) work
on pallav as well as on the field to
make it more decorative and to enhance the aesthetic appeal of the saree.
Types of Laheriyas
1) Pasavalli
1) Pasavalli
It
was also observed that if a laheriya had
interrupted patterns on the stripes were known as pasavalli designs. The broad bands in laheriya were known as ‘patta’,
narrow bands known as ‘shike’ and
interrupted laheriya were known as ‘pasavalli’.
Article: Saree
Origin: Rajasthan
Fabric: Georgette
Fabric
Colour: Blue and Pink
Style of Resist:
Fabric Resist
Description: Laheriya
with
interrupted patterns on the stripes were known as pasavalli designs. The fabric rolled and tied at intervals and then
first dyed in light colour. Then fabric is again rolled and tied at intervals
from the opposite direction and dyed followed by darker shades. The field of this pasavalli saree had thin diagonal stripes i.e. ‘shike’ in blue and pink colour in
opposite direction intersecting and forming interrupted laheriya pattern called pasavalli.
2) Mothara
Mothara
was also a one type of laheriya only.
The main characteristic feature of this laheriya
was plaid striped pattern. It was tied and dyed to form plaids.
Origin: Rajasthan
Fabric: Cotton
Fabric
Colour: Yellow, Light Green, Dark Pink, Violet Blue and Sky
Blue
Style of Resist:
Fabric Resist
Description: The field of the saree had diagonal broad bands i.e.
patta in light green, yellow, violet
and sky blue. Over these multi coloured bands dyeing with magenta colour was
done to create magenta thin bands i.e. shike
in opposite direction. The plaid effect was carried out on the saree through
tie and dye method as the characteristic feature of the Mothara.
3) Bhopalshahi
Bhopalshahi was
a type of laheriya with distinctive
feature of zigzag striped pattern.
Article: Saree
Origin: Rajasthan
Fabric: Georgette
Fabric
Colour: Black, White, Orange and Violet
Style of Resist:
Fabric Resist
Description:
Bhopalshahi was
a type of laheriya with distinctive
feature of zigzag striped pattern. The
saree was first pleated in several layers and then rolled diagonally, thus giving a zigzag pattern. The saree had white colour as a background. The saree
was dyed first in light colour i.e. orange colour followed by darker shade such
as violet and black. The field of the saree had thin bands ‘shike’ of white followed by thick bands
‘patta’ of black, orange, white and violet colour.
4) Samunder Laher
The Samunder Laher saree is one type of laheriya only. The Samunder Laher word literally means 'Ocean Waves'. The characteristic feature of this saree is that it is always dyed in pastel shades of colour of Ocean water such as Sky blue, Blue, Sea green, Light green, Light Yellow, Pink, Magenta etc.
Article: Saree
Origin: Rajasthan
Fabric: Georgette
Fabric Colour: Yellow, Light Green, Magenta, and Sky Blue
Style of Resist: Fabric Resist
Description: The Samunder Laher word literally means ‘Waves of the
Ocean’. The field of the saree had laheriya bands of equal thickness called patta. The characteristic
feature of the saree was the samunder laher saree is that it always had pastel
shades. This saree also had selected numbers of colour which resembles the
colour of the ocean and creates shades of it that’s why it was classified as samunder laher saree. The field of the saree had
diagonal patta of equal thickness dyed first in light
green followed by darker shades i.e. sky blue, yellow and magenta.
That's all for today....
*I do not own this samples. All this samples can be seen at 'Textile Art Museum', Department of Clothing and Textiles, Faculty of Family and Community Sciences, The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda, Vadodara - 390002, Gujarat, India.
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